Blog 11: More of Eleuthera

Blog 11 – More of Eleuthera

We remained in Rock Sound for ten days and could probably have enjoyed an even longer stay.

One of the highlights of our time there occurred after Susan suggested a walk over to the ‘ocean’ side of the island. A sign promised us that the North Side Restaurant and Resort awaited, giving us our objective. We were in some doubt that the restaurant existed as the road got narrower and rougher. Finally, at the end of the road, a rotund yellow lab and her mutt companion came out to greet us. We had arrived! The owner of the dogs was surprised that we had come on foot and assured us that she would give us a lift back to Rock Sound when we wanted to leave. Thus we came to make the acquaintance of Rose, owner of North Side Restaurant and Inn. 

Nord Side restaurant

Rosie

Seated around a picnic table in the dining room, overlooking the reef-strewn Atlantic shore of Eleuthera, we learned about Rose and her life. She opened her photo album for us, in which a large photo of her shaking hands with Nelson Mandela has pride of place. We enjoyed jerked chicken, spicey snapper and conch, and lovely conversation. Afterward we descended the stairway from the bluff to the beach. We were in no hurry to leave this windswept shore, walking the beach, wading and swimming.

Pink beach at Rock Sound

When finally, it was time to leave, Rose delivered us to the supermarket in Rock Sound. “When will you be ready for me to pick you up?” she asked, as we got out of the car. She picked us up and delivered us with our purchases, direct to the wharf where we had parked our dinghies. To anyone wanting to experience Rose’s unique restaurant, simply ask the good folk at Dingles store (and gas bar) to please call Rose for a customer pickup.

Two days later, we were exploring farther afield in our rented car, when by surprise, we encountered Now Or Never, just arrived in Davis Harbour from Cat Island.

Reunited at Davis Harbour

We sat around the picnic table at their marina and did some catching up. When I told Peter and Kathleen that we wanted to take them to a certain really great restaurant and resort on the North Coast, Peter looked at me and said: “So you have met Rose then, have you?” It’s hard to steal a march on those two!

Peter and Kathleen would be taking Now Or Never westward to Highborne Cay shortly. Tekla Bramble and Panacea were planning to move further north in anticipation of going to the Abacos (if Panacea’s engine could be revived) or Freeport and Ft Pierce (if not). We all left South Eleuthra on the same day, and it was later on that same day that the engine issue gave us final notice. Susan and I entered Governors Harbour under sail. In preparing to anchor, the furler line fouled and as we dragged across a dinghy mooring, I gave the engine a try. No luck.

We were fortunate to have Trumpeter in harbour as our problem developed. George, a former Saint Johner, and his wife Nancy are regulars on the Saint John River in their trawler Green Flash, out of Southwest Harbour. We had met on the way to church a few days before and got to know each-other subsequently. Watching from the cockpit of their south-boat (Trumpeter) George saw the way things were coming down and raced to help. Together, we towed Panacea to the Government wharf and made her fast. After I raised the anchor, he took the fouled mooring away.  By sunset most of the problems were restored. I did manage to start the engine but it smoked and stalled.

As we played Blackout aboard Tekla Bramble that evening, I advised Perry that I would need to take the cylinder head off, and that under the circumstances we would not be able to take Panacea to the Abacos, at least until the engine was running again.

“Can you make it to Lucaya?” he responded.

“What is in Lucaya?” I asked.

“You can probably get the parts you will need in nearby Freeport. We have just been asked if we can get there to house-sit and dog-sit on the 24^th. We could fit both boats on our friends dock.” Perry and Irene filled in some details.

After crafting elaborate plans, we stayed where we are. Sue and I would have to stay awake for at least 24 hours. The wind forecast is for light winds which could result in a 40 hour trip. Without an extra watch-keeper aboard, we are going to wait for the engine part, so that we can break up the trip by motoring into and out of a few stopover anchorages along the way.

As I write this we are at Cupid’s Cay for our fifth day, awaiting a replacement cylinder head gasket. Tekla Bramble seized the weather window and by now is in Lucaya, where Panacea hopes to join in a week or so. I dismantled our engine and discovered low bolt torque values on several cylinder head bolts, despite what we thought to have been careful torqueing and re-torqueing. This would be consistent with the presence of white steam from heated anti-freeze, although it is not readily apparent how the crankcase became pressurized. The actual progression to engine failure remains unclear. Another cruiser suggested that the way that I retorqued was incorrect, and that I was supposed to completely relieve the stress on each bolt (singly) before restoring it to it’s full torque value. We have enquired among a number of mechanics, including son -Tristan, who torqued the failed gasket initially, (I re-torqued it) and no one lends that theory much credence. One ‘crush’ per gasket is the consensus. Tim from Wayward Sun told me about his similar problem a few years ago on a different boat. He consulted an aircraft mechanic friend, who advised that the actual torque is a range, and what is more important is that all bolts be turned to EXACTLY the same torque. Tim told me that the AME advised him to do the torquing in five (yes – ladies and gentlemen: FIVE - stages). This sounds right to me. Why the heck not? We had 130 hours on the failed head gasket – with rust starting on the metal compression collar at each of two cylinders, indicating the presence of water..

Soooo! It is 5 days later again, We finally received the gasket today. We made 5 separate trips to Xpress-it and watched as others went thru the same dance of spoon-feeding how they do things. They seem unable to ask all of their questions on the same occasion, instead spinning out the process into multiple visits or calls.  They are still faster and better than normal customs brokers, and it is affordable, so Xpress-It receives two thumbs up from Susan and Derek.

As we walked down one of the side streets on our way back to the boat, I was ‘bombed’ by a passing bird. We found a public water tap further up the street and I washed bird poop off of all of my clothing.

It was a sign! My stars are definitely out of alignment.

The gasket was the right one! I checked every detail. Then I prepared each bolt by wire brushing and oiling them. It was beginning to look like things were going to just ‘fly’ together. I had rechecked the flatness of the cylinder head, and the block only yesterday, after worrying about it for a whole week. With a flashlight I gave every surface a final check.

“Wait a minute...blink...blink...”I could not believe my eyes. Susan came at my call and looked at the top of number 1 piston for me. I had to be seeing things. It looked fine when I first inspected it almost a week ago.

The piston is cracked across its top surface from front to rear, directly in line with the wrist pin. This is going to take a little longer folks.

We took a break. When we returned I spent part of the afternoon preparing the engine for removal and flipping. I made the engine bearers as a pair of rails to facilitate this, but in no way was I planning to pull the engine so soon.

By 5:30 we were joined by Tim and Michelle at Ronnie’s Pub for beer and pool. We can get to the engine again tomorrow.

We have met a number of tourists from the guest houses here. When they hear about our broken engine, the usual question is: “Is this a serious problem?”

Our answer is always “No, it is an opportunity. And we are partaking of this wonderful place in full measure thanks to the engine failure.”